cruising along the Rhine

Gisteren heb ik gegaan met seven andere Amerikaners op de Rijn…. no, sorry to my Dutcreaders, but though I may have started my language lessons again but I don’t think Im quite up to blogging in Dutch any time soon!

Yesterday I went with several other Americans for a cruise on the Rhine. These are guys who are here for a couple of months for training or two build a machine that will then be installed back home at a customer site. One is a trainer who’s been coming here for extended periods for years, and he and his Dutch friend Jerry (Geri?) like to arrange this excursion a couple of times per summer. We met early in the morning in Eindhoven and drove to Koblenz, where we parked by the river nad then walked across town to the train station. We got our train tickets (with a group discount); the guys bought beer and I got soft pretzels. (Paula’s travel rule #137: When in Germany, buy soft pretzels.)

We took the train to Bingen on the Rhine, where I tried unsuccessfully to figure out why that town name had such a familiar ring. (Google helped later: I’m fairly sure that it was due to this old poem.) Normally they get on the boat at Rudesheim, but there was some work being done on the tracks. When we got off at Bingen, we had a bit of a hike from the station to the boat dock, but then there was still some time to kill, so we repaired to a nearby biergarten for beer and wine (the guys had already gone through the beer they’d bought, on the train ride). This all took a lot longer to do than to tell; we caught the boat around two, having left EIndhoven around 7:30AM.

The train ride was scenic, but I didn’t bother taking any pictures through the dirty windows. From the boat we had a much better view, castle after castle as the Rhine rolled under us. It’s a World Heritage site: Koblenz is 2000 years old, first built by the Romans, while Bingen is even older. The castles we saw date back as far as the 1200s. Some still look lived in, or have been turned into hotels. You can see how things worked, just looking at them from the river: there will be a town lining the bank, with a castle looming high above, with fortified walls, arrow slits and crenellated look-out towers. The lords of the castle collects tolls from all commerce passing down the river – I’d guess the message was something like “pay our toll and we’ll let you through – and we’ll make sure no one else attacks you along this part.” The towns are not all that far apart; while riding on the train, we saw very distinct towns, separated by fields, close enough that you could walk from one to another in an hour or two. Along the river, I’m sure it was easier to go by boat.

I elected to come back that night, because I’d had a busy week and expect to have another, and there’s a lot I need to do. Most of the rest of the group stayed in Koblenz and were going to go walk around the old town of Kochem, on the Moselle River, this morning. I’ll definitely do this again when Ted is here; maybe we’ll stay over that time.

Click images to make them bigger.

2 Responses to “cruising along the Rhine”

  1. Grada Says:

    Gisteren heb ik gegaan met seven andere Amerikaners op de Rijn…. In Dutch one would write:
    “Gisteren heb ik een boottochtje op de Rijn gemaakt, met zeven andere Amerikanen”
    But you make an excellent start with retaking the Dutch.. It is a nasty language for foreigners, because of so many idiosyncratic ways of sayig things..
    Vide also that dimunitive in “het boot tochtje”; it may have lasted hours even so: tochtje is is…

    Koblenz is 200 years old, I bet you meant 2000 years.

    Bingen: to me it immediately means:
    Hildegard from Bingen; early medieval mystica 1098 – 1179, abbess, vidionary, composer …

    “The lords of the castle collects tolls from all commerce passing down the river – I’d guess the message was something like “pay our toll and we’ll let you through – and we’ll make sure no one else attacks you along this part.”
    Dot on the spot! Exactly what they did.. The Dutch just did the same with their tolls at the cities.. soooo much more lucrative than fighting all the time!

    Katz adn Maus castles: how much fun: Cat adn Mouse.. did you hear any stories about these names???
    All the best with the upcoming busy week!

    Grada aka Squirrel

  2. paula Says:

    Thanks! I have aged Koblenz by 1800 years :)

    Katz and Maus castles are connected; the cat came first. According to the Photo Guide I bought (so I’d know which castle was which and so I can show Ted), the castle was built in 1360 by the Counts of Katzenelnbogen (which according to Wikipedia does really mean “cat’s elbow”, but came from the Latin Cattimelibocus, from the Catti tribe and ‘melibocus’ for mountains). The site turned out to be excellent for collecting tolls, so they gave it the family came and called it Neukatzenelnbogen, which was shorted by use to Burg Katz, Cat Castle.

    Because the Archbishop of Trier’s castle was much smaller it was ridiculed as Burg Maus, Mouse Castle, and the name stuck.

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