On Sunday, my friend Grada (frequent commenter here) was being confirmed in the Anglican Church; since I was still in-country, it seemed only appropriate to attend – not only as myself, but as a representative of our online discussion group. Rather than just going to Rotterdam for Sunday evening, I decided to go earlier and make an afternoon of it. My plans went through a few iterations (I’d already been there twice and seen some of the obvious tourist things); finally, I decided to rent a bike. This was a great success; it gave me the freedom of the city and a chance to take any detour I wanted, much better than just going between metro or tram stops. It cost only 6.50 euros and as is common in Dutch cities, the bikes could be rented right next to the central train station. I began at the Cubic Houses (): I’d seen some in another city, but Rotterdam has one you can go into. Verdict: you could definitely live in it … but I’d rather not, given a choice. It’s cozy, but not entirey practical.
It was a gorgeous day, the nicest one this year so far, and I had several hours left, so I decided to fritter them away by the water. In fact it was so nice I wanted to be *on* the water, and so I took a water-taxi over to the island where the Hotel New York stands, remembering a similar trip with Squirrel last year. There are boat tours of the harbor, and I considered one, but those boats are so big you don’t really feel like you’re on the water; on those little boat taxis, you *feel* the waves! All of the outside tables were full, so instead I found a bench by the water, occupying myself with my knitting and with watching a sailing ship that had just docked and the foot fetishist on the other end of my bench. (Somewhat scruffy man, very nice Canon camera, taking pictures of the shoes of women walking by. Not my sensible and scuffed ones, though!)
I took the taxi back and meandered over to the Euromast next, staying by the water, stopping for a Coke and then pausing to observe a tall ship used to train Norwegian naval cadets. I’d been up the Euromast before, but on a cloudy day. The view was much nicer this time. I wasn’t very hungry, but had some time left and knew I probably wouldn’t have a chance to eat later so I had a very nice appetizer at the fancy restaurant there, shrimp tempura with tiny melon balls.
The church wasn’t far from there, and I got to it with only one involuntary detour (I’d figured out where it was from atop the tower, but of course things look different at ground level and the harbor’s shape and an intervening tunnel meant it wasn’t a straight shot there. It was still half an hour or so early when I got there but people were starting to go into the hall next door, and when I asked about getting into the church a kind man took me there through the hall. It seemed inappropriate to knit in the church itself, so I sat in a back pew and occupied myself with reading the Bible there – Exodus, as it was the second day of Passover. (One nice thing about churches and synagogues: you always have something to read. I attribute my cultural literacy on Biblical matters largely to boring services in my youth.) Eventually people started to come in. I kept reading and watching them alternately, until I saw Grada standing near the front – I must have had my head down when she came in. I walked over and said hello; she was clearly very pleased to have a representative piffler there and had me sit with Twin (the confirmands all sat in front, of course). Twin and I talked a bit about the symblism of the Bishop’s mitre (flame sof the Holy Spirit, as he himself mentioned later) and the differences among religions and denominations. Never try telling a historian that a tradition only a hundred or so years old is ‘not really all that new’ (I was speaking of Bat Mitzvot).
The service was in English and so were all the prayerbooks (pity: I was sort of looking forward to trying to figure out some old-fashioned Dutch!). St. Mary’s was built, just three hundred years ago, for the Expat English community in Rotterdam. Judging by people’s accents, it still serves that purpose though there were plenty of Dutch people there too. It was amusingly reminiscent of the old British consulate I toured in Danshui, Taiwan. Those Brits, clearly big on building a home away from home
The Bishop was respendant early on in a purple robe, then for the service he put a gold one over that, wore his mitre and carried a crozier – the very picture of a modern model Bishop. He talked kindly of how he enjoyed confirmations and how unique each one is, and his sermon was personal, direct, and also kindly – I strongly suspect he is quite a nice man. The confirmation itself seemed very Christian to me – well, obviously, but I mean that it’s clear how this ritual with the anointing of holy oils and the laying on of hands is a reminder of Christianity’s oldest stories, and the Bishop made that connection clear as well.
Most of the confirmands were young’uns, 18 or 20 or so. The one young man whose face I saw as he came back to his seat was smiling, happy but I think also relieved to have this milestone over. Not Grada, though; her face was shockingly sober and serious and anyone who had seen it out of context would have immediately known that she had just taken a major, irrevocable step in her life. Later in the Church hall, though, she was joyous, and I think a few times on the verge of tears. I stayed for tea and an excellent almond cookie, and to talk to Grada a bit, then had to head to the station so I wouldn’t get home and to bed too late.
After returning my bike, I had a while to wait for the train so just to further conflate holidays I called my mom to get an account of their Passover meal (to which my little brother brought his new girlfriend!). She and my uncle were cautiously approving. The Seder itself wasn’t as pleasant as it could have been, though, because Dad’s still in the hospital (getting therapy for a suspect stroke or TIA). I got back to Eindhoven to see the remains of a very different sort of celebration: PSV has won the Dutch football (soccer) championships. It must have been a wild party; there were so many discarded plastic cups everywhere that cars driving by the station were going crunchcrunchcrunch.
And next Saturday I finally get to go home to Taiwan. It will be so nice not living out of a suitcase!